Saturday, 19 February 2011

More Peasant Clothing

As a final post on peasant clothing, I intend to 'mop up' the various odd bits of dress information I have picked up along the way.  

Not wearing a corset! Maude Egerton King,
reproduced courtesy of Haslemere Educational Museum
Just to recap, the Peasant Arts literature on dress is sparse, and therefore I have approximated the beliefs of the Healthy and Artistic Dress Union, where Godfrey and Ethel Blount were committee members, with the beliefs of the Peasant Arts movement.  The only paper published on the subject by the Peasant Arts movement itself is 'To Dress Well - An Apology for the Dress-making Branch of the Peasant Arts Society', which is very similar to other Healthy and Artistic Dress Union literature, and was quoted in my previous post The Corset.

Jaeger advert from The Dress Review, July 1904.
Captioned with: "We are very glad to be able to
give an illustration of The Jaeger Bust Girdle
for those who need some support.  It is perfectly hygienic
and comfortable, and may be seen
at any of the Jaeger Depots.  Price about half-a-guinea."

Corselet Skirt illustration from
The Dress Review, April 1906

The Healthy and Artistic Dress Union had confederating with numerous similar movements across Europe.  In September 1903 The Dress Review reported that it had links with the Free Federation for the Improvement of Women’s Clothing, in common with the Dutch and German Dress Societies.

The Dress Review in January 1905 was selling patterns for a djibbeh, two Forma gowns, a simple blouse and a Forma cape.  

New Place, Haslemere designed by C.F.A. Voysey
The Hall at New Place designed by C.F.A. Voysey, from Studio
vol 21
Norney Grange, near Shackleford, Surrey designed by C. F.A. Voysey from English Heritage

In the same year, amongst the new members of the Healthy and Artistic Dress Union, are Mrs Voysey of the The Orchard, Chorley Wood, Hertfordshire; the wife of Charles Voysey, the Arts and Crafts architect and designer.  Voysey is linked to Haslemere in numerous ways: he designed the house New Place, Farnham Lane, Haslemere in 1897, and Norney Grange in nearby Shackleford, in the same year.

from The Dress Review, July 1905

'Frock smocked at the waist' from
The Dress Review, July 1905

In July 1905 The Dress Review published pictures of “a frock smocked at the waist to the shape of the wearer’s belt, which is the style at present.  Suitable for a girl with a ‘slight frame’ it must be made in light material such as silk or crepe de chine.”
Peasant dress from The Dress Review, July 1906

In July 1906 The Dress Review reported on their May Annual Meeting, presided over by Mrs Walter Crane, where they had an exhibition, the highlight being a peasant’s dress lent by Mrs Rantaniemi of Finland (who had started up a Finnish branch of the Union).  The Dress Review commented on this dress that "it is remarkable that the shape of the dress coincides almost exactly with one of the most approved patterns of dress worn by members of the Union."

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